The Rolex Milsub

The Rolex “special deliveries” are very appreciated by collectors because of their rarity of course, but also because they are the ultimate expression of the concept of toolwatch, which has made Rolex famous. Some of these watches have the usual features of the “ordinary” models and some other have specific details that make them look even sexier to the eye of the connoisseur. The milsub belongs to this category and the happy few collectors who own one of these watches usually consider them as a keeper in their Rolex sportswatches collection.

In the 1970’s, about 1200 Rolex Submariner were made especially for the Royal Navy under the references 5513, 5517 or the double reference 5513/5517. These military Submariners – nicknamed milsubs by the collectors - have the following specificities:
- There is a "T" in a circle above the depth markings, to indicate the presence of tritium in the markers. This feature is shared by other watches issued to the Royal Navy, such as the Omega Seamaster 300. The dials used on the milsubs are all similar except for a small batch of dials with larger markers and a slightly different coronet.
- The hands are specific for this model and are often referred to as "sword" hands (ref. 5513 was also issued with Mercedes hands). Again, this type of hands has also been used on the Omega Seamaster 300 delivered to the Royal Navy.
- The bezel is a standard production, but in some cases (always on ref. 5517 and sometimes on ref. 5513) the insert has minute markings around the whole insert.


- The case spring bars are fixed to fit a NATO strap only.


- The case-back has a MOD (Ministery of Defense) part number engraved, which starts with 0552 or with W10, a triangle with a hat on top and below an issue number and year. The milsubs have been delivered to the MOD in well know batches and their serial numbers correspond to their issue number. The caseback numbers are quite different depending of the delivery and the serial number is also engraved inside the caseback.



There were several configurations of mil subs that are considered correct and original depending on the age and batch.
- The 5513 milsub has been delivered with either sword hands or mercedes hands from new
- The 5513 milsub came with either full 60 minute bezel insert or 15 min bezel insert from new.
- The 5517 milsub was delievered only with sword hands and full 60 minute bezel.
Some milsubs have had their dials repainted by the MOD watchmakers in a very unusual fashion: the resulting dial has a very unorthodox “explorer” display (with 3-6-9 numbers), a huge coronet and an outer chapter ring.

The new Breitling Navitimer "125e Anniversaire"

To celebrate its 125th anniversary, Breitling is reaffirming its passion for chronographs more powerfully than ever, by reminding people of the key role the brand has played in developing this type of instruments.

But the history of Breitling is also closely intertwined with that of aviation, thanks to the cockpit instruments and pilots’ chronographs that have made the company the "official supplier to world aviation".

The most famous of these instruments for professionals is undoubtedly the legendary Navitimer chronograph, with its circular slide rule designed to compute all airborne navigation calculations.

The Navitimer "125e Anniversaire" is a highly distinctive version of this cult-object, specially designed by Breitling to mark the company’s five quarter-centuries.

This limited edition of 2,009 pieces is distinguished by a particularly understated and dynamic aesthetic.

The steel case featuring alternating satin-brushed and polished surfaces is teamed with a highly original new bracelet called Air Racer – a rigid perforated wristband that pays tribute to a 1960s modern design icon.

The Navitimer "125e Anniversaire" is equipped with an exclusive movement, Breitling Caliber 26.

This selfwinding 38-jewel chronograph, chronometer-certified by the COSC, is distinguished by its 60-minute totalizer, positioned in the dial center for optimal readability.

The watch is also available in a red gold version, likewise fitted with the Air Racer bracelet.

Aquatimer Chronograph Edition Galapagos Islands

Galapagos Islands is needing help. IWC has promised to give a big donation to Charles Darwin Foundation since 2009, which is also the 200th anniversary of Charles Darwin’s birth. Meanwhile, the ocean chronograph Galapagos Islands, which is the result of the continuous development in Submariner series, becomes the appealing, practical and full of sports feeling for this cooperation plan: the black is just like the lava of volcano islands formed from the bottom of the sea, the white is just like the clouds which are floating above the volcano islands. And the big turtle embossment surrounding the back cover is “Tribute to the Charles Darwin Foundation – Galapagos Islands”, reprensenting Charles Darwin Foundation and Galapagos Islands.

Referring to volcano, the special black rubber plating of the Aquatimer Chronograph Edition Galapagos Islands is made through complicated sulfuration process, making the case with a 44mm diameter have a different vision and touching experience. Each case is pressured and heated in special made mold, melting with this warm and anti collision and skidproof material. The strap is also made by similar black rubber.

Aquatimer Chronograph Edition Galapagos Islands Ref. 3767, stainless steel case with special painted sulfuration rubber, 44mm diameter, equipped with new developed rotary outer bezel, 79320 mechanical chronograph movement, 44 hours power reserve, day and date displays. New bracelet speedy replacement system, back cover surrounded by big turtle embossment.

The Aquatimer Chronograph, equipped with the new developed rotary submariner outer bezel with minute as marker and can only be adjusted in counterclockwise direction, has a significant change. Compared with the rotary inner bezel which can be adjusted by crown, the anti-slip outer bezel has two advantages: it can be operated very easily before getting into the water with gloves on.

It also highlight the lightness of this important diving setting(together with
minutes hand). The rotary outer bezel is a new design, will become an important structural spare part of each Aquatimer Chronograph. The measurement marker dial includes the 4mm wide sapphire crystal glass, and closely embedded in the surface of the outer bezel. There is thick Super-LumiNova® nightlight pvd on the bottom of the sapphire glass circle, even without lightening, lights can still come out through the sapphire glass circle or numbers markers. This evolved innovative design can increase the security when diving.

The second advantage: the innovative bracelet speedy replacement system. As long as you release the mechanical lock setting of the pin, you can remove and replace the bracelet or strap without using other tools. The speedy replacement only needs several seconds. The rubber strap can be replaced by ouch style extended strap so that it can be worn outside the diving clothes. The Aquatimer Chronograph Edition Galapagos has anti-pressure function and can endure a
pressure of 12bar. When it is full winding the power reserve can reach 44 hours and the accumulated recording time can reach 12 hours. The numbers on the dial and the rotary bezel are still a strong comparison with black and white. Only the small seconds hand is yellow, which is the hand to check the function.

Bvlgari 125th Anniversary Sotirio Bulgari and The Bulgari-Bulgari Moon Phase watch

Bvlgari 125th Anniversary Sotirio Bulgari

Bvlgari is 125 years old and is celebrating with a limited edition of 125 watches in honor of the brand's founder, Sotirio Bulgari. Honestly, I can never figure out when to use a "v" or "u" in the brand's name, as they themselves seem to go back and forth.

This Sotirio Bulgari watch comes in gold (either pink, yellow, or white) in a 42mm sized case. It is a stunning design when you first behold it, with elements both classic and contemporary. Most notable are the broad lugs that prominently spread outward. As an homage to tradition as well as pocket watches, the rear of the watch case opens with a view into the movement (covered by a sapphire crystal).

The unique argente dial is completely made by Bvlgari with hand applied markers and partial skeletonization. The hands, in gold, are faceted for an excellent look. Being an important watch for the company, the BVL 250 automatic mechanical movement is highly decorated with a number of polishes and finishes, as well as engravings on gold rotor. It is also a thin movement at about 3.73mm thick.

With an alligator strap and an important name to live up to, this 125th anniversary watch from Bvlgari utilizes every luxury treatment the distinguished brand is known to offer in terms of quality and presentation. It is something that needs to be experienced in person to fully admire. Look for them in select Bvlgari boutique stores worldwide.

The Bulgari-Bulgari Moon Phase watch

The famous "Bulgari-Bulgari" watch collection has been joined by a new luxurious timepiece for ladies - the Bulgari-Bulgari Moon Phase watch.

Naturally, the new watch proudly demonstrates the distinctive double signature on the bezel. The magnificent watch has united diamonds, mother of pearl and a remarkable watchmaking complication.

The polished stainless steel case of the Bulgari watch measures 38mm in diameter. The timepiece is 30-meter water-resistant.

The zest of the stylish watch is a rotating indicator depicting the phases of the moon. The complicated feature is presented against a wave-pattern guilloche central part of the mother-of-pearl dial. The moon phase display advances in tiny increments during the month reflecting the movement of the Moon.

You glance will also be immediately caught by a majestic crescent paved with round brilliant diamonds. The subsidiary seconds are displayed via a sub-dial positioned at 6 o'clock. The face of the watch is protected by a flat sapphire crystal.


The Moon Phase watch accommodates the self-winding mechanical B77 movement adorned with applied Cote-de-Geneve and perlage polish decorations. The movement gives an advantage of a 42-hour power reserve.

The Bulgari Bulgari-Bulgari Moon Phase watch embraces the wrist with a white alligator leather strap fitted with a stainless steel folding clasp.

Divers in the darkness

The weather is getting cool and the night is getting loner. It has become the past to adore the dazzling light. Now we have come to a time full of mysterious glimmers. The watches with black pearl light dials have become the secret divers in the winter.

White pearl is beautiful, but black pearl is even more beautiful. But what black represents? The dark pearl mother can change into blue, green and even purple: mysterious, noble and charming. It is a perfect match with the watch whose styles is just between decoration art and rock: such as New Avenue from Harry Winston. Avenue has become quite mature in design and been using quite a lot of dazzling elements after 18 years’ development. Harry Winston fully show its charm of the king of diamond through this model, which is from the creator of this New York company. The line diamond pattern on the interface between the bezel and strap is in sharp contrast with the ellipse diamond in the center of the dial: luxury and cool!

A pair of Söhne from A. Lange & Söhne have extended the tradition of hand-winding movement: Lange 1 and Cabaret are made up as a black girl and emit the charming light in the darkness, which absolutely represents the most senior watch making art. The diamond markings and red gold case and ray strap make these two watches win their own positions in the luxury jewelry, just like art atmosphere disclosed from Harry Winston’s New Avenue. From the watch making point of view, these two watches own all the technologies of A. Lange & Söhne. Both of them are equipped with hand made hand-winding movement, the round Lange 1 is matched with L901.4 movement and the Cabaret is with L931.4.



Admiral’s Cup Competition 40 of Corum is full of sports. Dark pearl dial is shining, the hexagon diamond is marked in the bezel. The minute markers design is just like the Aflutter colorful flags, which is also interspersed with diamond. CO-082 automatic movement is specially designed for 40mm diameter case. And it is waterresistant to 100m. Now the climate in southern hemisphere is quite comfortable and suits for sailing, matching with such a Admiral’s cup with white rubber strap will trigger people’s interest of going to doing water sports there in the winter.

Trends Time

Grahm Chronofighter Oversize GMT Big Date

The Grahm Chronofighter Oversize GMT Big Date is made to as a great timekeeping companion to join exclusive collections of passionate watch connoisseurs or embellish the wrist of avant-garde design fans.

Drop a glance at the watch and you will immediately notice the one-of-a-kind 'left-hand drive' controls composed of a bold 'reset push-button' and extremely long 'start and stop' lever with six-sided screws. The watch features an eye-catching combination of colors-solemn black and enthusiastic orange.


The new Graham Chronofighter watch is also aimed at frequent travelers-it is provided with an easy-to-read GMT function. Moreover, the timepiece gives an advantage of a big date positioned at 12 o'clock and the signature Graham bi-compax chronograph functions.

The rugged, extremely masculilne case of the Graham watch is crafted in stainless steel case and measures 47mm in diameter. The case construction incorporates ergonomic lugs and a left-hand dual-security 9mm crown. The left-hand trigger-lever and reset push-button with a non-slip thumb grip are crafted in black PVD carbide on stainless steel, accentuating the British Racing Look. The watch is 100-meter water-resistant.

Arthur Junghans Attaché Kalender


Arthur Junghans series from Junghans has a new member: The Attaché Kalender with four features. White or black dial, equipped with steel or rose gold made hands and hour markers. This unadorned automatic has hands style date, week, month and month phase. the J800.2 movement with stripes decoration and screws is improved based on ETA 2824. The Attaché Kalender equipped with crocodile strap and fold-over clasp is sold at 1,590Euro.


Grand Tourbillon Perpetual

Arnold & Son launches a multi-functions luxury Grand Tourbillon Perpetual. tourbillon at 6 o'clock, month displays at 3 o'clock position and Day displays at 9 o'clock position. The date hands at 12 o'clock position will leap to the original position at the end of the month. Arnold & Son sets a sun time displays under the leaped date hands, which indicates the time difference between solar calendar and the local time. This Grand Tourbillon Perpetual is equipped wtih red gold or white gold of 45mm, each of them is limited to 10 pieces.

The Rose Gold Grand Tourbillon Perpetual is sold at 171,000Euro.

JeanRichard


The Bressel 1665 Automatic newly launched by JeanRichard is equipped with the self researched JR1000 movement, the case features in diameter of 42mm, thickness is 10.3mm, water resistant to 30m, and it is sold at RMB 43,800. the new Bressel Classic Grande Date has a 43mm case, and the movement uses self made JR 33 automatic movement, and it is sold at RMB 36,000.



FORTIS

Swiss Cosmonauts


B42-Official Cosmonauts Chronograph Alarm Titan belongs to Cosmonaut series, which is the third generation of Fortis, and it is limited to 300 pieces. It is equipped with the same self made F2001-5 movement as the previous Alarms and also first uses red minutes markers. Other fresh things are the buttons and the rubber protection jacket on the crown. The Titanium made case is 42mm in diameter, equipped with sapphire glass and water resistant to 200m you can observe the movement certified by COSC through the back.


BELL&ROSS
Professional diving instrument



To meet the needs of professional divers, the French brand Bell&Ross developed Instrument BR02-1000M, you can read time indicated by the hands and fluorescence scale. There is also fluorescence scale on the single direction rotary inner bezel. The diver set and adjust the diving time through the second crown at the 2 o’clock position. It is water resistant to 1,000m and the helium valve offers a perfect security guarantee. Instrument BR02 is powered by ETA 2892. This sports wine bucket shaped Bell & Ross has stainless steel version and black carbon version and the Pro Dial version with clearer markers.

U-BOAT
Strong fluorescence



In the U-Boat created by Italo Fontana, Thousands of Feet MB 1R has won a position in the famous big size automatic. The angular stainless steel case is covered by PVD painting and it is 50mm in diameter, which gives enough space for the ETA Unitas 6497 big size hand-winding movement. The case which is water resistant to 100m together with multi red fluorescence displays especially attract your vision. The dial setting design together with the left hand crown are both typical features of U-Boat. And the cowhide holes give people a strong feeling of sports. The starting sold price is 2,700Euro, making the Thousands of Feet MB 1R become the most expensive product in U-Boat.

HARRY WINSTON

Slight and rigid



The fourth member of Project zircon alloy is naturally named as Project Z4. this is a double timezone style: each timezone displays has their own hours hand and minutes hands and day and night displays. The left hand timezone can be adjusted by the left hand button and the adjustment unit is hour. The big date at 6 o’clock position is also very different，the two numbers are overlapped. The central star of the dial rotating means the watch is running. The movement of this Project Z4 is improved based on Girard-Perregaux automatic. The case is 44mm in diameter and made of slight and rigid zircon alloy.

BLANCPAIN

Leman Time Zone



Blancpain improves its time zone watch equipped with 5L60 movement. The new Leman Time Zone is 40mm in diameter and the hands follow the styles of submariner. The second time zone with hour and minute displays is at 12 o’clock position, and the day-night displays is at 9 o’clock position. The delicate movement with 100 hours power reserve can be seen through the back cover. Since the thickness of the movement is only 3.25mm, the whole thickness of the watch reaches an elegant thickness, which is only 11.4mm. the stainless steel version is sold at 9,770Euro.

Ferrari Granturismo GMT-Alarm



The Ferrari is subcontracted by Panerai, Granturismo GMT-Alarm of which is equipped with alarm setting. Different from warnings of the anti-theft alarm system, the crown below can adjust the hands with red sharp into the anticipated time. GMT-Alarm can also display the second time zone through the window. The automatic movement is AS 5008 which is improved based on La Joux-Perret. The inspiration of Granturismo is from Ferrari racing cars. The 45mm diameter case looks similar with the racing car.

Cartier brand new time concept

The watches Cartier launched this year all have the Cartier splendid design styles, containing the special understanding of Cartier on time conception. The men watches launched this year all show the elegance of gentlemen and describe the life of keen fashionistas. The representative watches are: Santos Triple 100, Santos de Cartier , Roadster, Ballon Bleu De Cartier and Pasha Seatimer round diamond marking chronograph, which the ladies watches combine the noble characters of gentlewomen and the concept of pursuing innovative life. The representative watcehs are: Le Cirque Animalier de Cartier series and Cartier Libre series.

Santos Triple 100



Cartier first uses hollow-out movement and rotating three dials in Santos Triple 100. when rotating the crown, the inner setting 18K white gold movable prism will start at the same time. Under the movement of the small gear mechanism, the dial can change direction graudally and display three different pictures.it is Offered in a limited edition of 20 pieces and each one has an independent no..

Movement: Cartier 9610MC hand-wound hollow out
Case: 18K white gold, round diamond markings
Dial: 18K white gold, three dials
Strap: Black short crocodile strap, 18K adjustable three fold clasp
Diamond markings: About 7.6 Carats

Santos de Cartier



The size large case is a block of brushed pink gold and the bezel is matte black rubber. Bezel screws are matching pink gold screws, and this new Santos de Cartier should give the Audemars Piguet rose gold Royal Oak Offshore Rubberclad a run for its money. Cartier’s intention for this piece is to portray the Santos as one of strength and reinforced sportiness.

Movement: Cartier 049 automatic movement
Case: 18K rose gold brushed, matte black rubber 18K rose gold bezel, anti-scratch sapphire crystal glass
Dial: black matte dial
Strap: 18K rose gold screw connected black rubber strap, 18K rose gold needle style clasp
Water resistance: 100m

Roadster



The new Carter Roadster XL which incorporates walnut wood in both the dial and metal bracelet. Cartier chose the use of walnut wood from the inspiration of the Roadster car. Available in both pink gold and white gold, this new Cartier Roadster XL is more masculine IMO than prior versions and is perfect for the confident gentleman who wants a watch that is bold and makes a statement. Cartier launched 250 pieces limited rose gold with independent no. and 150 pieces white gold with independent no. only.

Movement: Cartier 3110 automatic movement
Case: 18K white gold case and bezel
Dial: walnut wood dial, uses metal marking wood then dealt with light painting
Strap: Roadster special strap change setting, the additional metal strap and deep brown semi-matte crocodile strap can be chosen randomly, with 18K white gold three fold clasp
Water resistance: 100m.

Panda decorated in Le Cirque Animalier de Cartier



the body of lovely panda is fully marked with sapphire and diamond, the delicate panda hands hold the black enamel dial, and there are also white bamboo and eucalypt leaves in the white enamel.

Movement: Quartz
Case: 18K white gold rhodium plate case, with round diamond markings
Dial: black and white enamel dial, 18K white gold rhodium plate panda, round diamond markings, black corundum and emerald（panda eyes）, part of details are described by black enamel
Diamond weight: 8 Carats
Strap: deep grey brush canvas strap, matching with 18K white gold rhodium plate diamond markings needle style clasp

Ballon bleu de Cartier Jewelry



There is another new member added into Balon bleu de Cartier series. The obvious satellite winding crown at the boundary of the dial, the arc sapphire crystal glass, simple and clean design, the whole semblance is mainly with roundness, which is quite generous. The latest bleu de Cartier has large, middle and small size.

Movement: 049 automatic movement
Case: 18K white gold rhodium plate case, with round diamond markings
Dial: silver painting
Strap: jewelry crocodile strap, with 18K white gold rhodium plate adjustable folded clasp
Diamond weight: 2 Carats